Dinner with George Sandeman at The Milton Inn

I had the pleasure to dine with George Sandeman the seventh generation of The House of Sandeman. I always enjoy nontraditional food and wine pairings, port being thought of as a dessert wine was a prime candidate. Chef Brian Boston was up to the task. ( http://www.miltoninn.com/ ) I was fortunate to be seated with Chef Galen Sampson and his wife Bridget of The Dogwood ( http://www.dogwoodbaltimore.com/ ) who gave a chefs perspective on approaching this type of dinner.
When wines are currently available I will put pricing in the descriptions. Because George was so gracious to buy dinner, all Sandeman’ s wines will be discounted 20% from the listed prices through the end of the year.

Don Fino Superior Fino Sherry ($15.99)

Shellfish Soup with tarragon, roasted garlic and Don Fino Sherry

On its own the Sherry was light and pleasant with slight almond flavors. Paired with the cream of the soup it really showed up with pear and apple fruit coming forth. A great combination.

Sandeman 10 & 20 year old Tawny Porto ($22.99 & $45.99)

Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with a Samdeman 20 year old Tawny reduction and Foie Gras oil, prosciutto, chive crispy polenta and caramelized shallots.

This was a great combination of sweet paired with savory. On their own the ports showed nice flavors of walnut and raisin. The 10 year had a bit more tannic grip. The 20 year was a lighter amber color. The rich flavors of the Foie Gras brought out more of the dried fruit notes. The Foie Gras took on a creamier texture with flavors lingering longer beside the port.

Sandeman 30 & 40 year old Tawny Porto ($59.99 & $119.99)

Fennel Pollen, Hazelnut and Pepper Dusted Venison Chop with fig, 40 year Tawny reduction, beet, truffle risotto, sautéed wild mushrooms and asparagus.
The ports showed the mellowing effects of their age. It was interesting that the 40 year possessed the most acidity, making it the best match for the venison. The earthiness of the truffle was a particular treat matched with the well dried fig and apricot flavors of the Port.

2007 Sandeman Vintage Porto ($89.99)

Chocolate Trio – Dark chocolate truffle, chocolate macadamia torte and chocolate pot de crème with 2007 vintage Porto Syrup.

Vintage port, in my opinion, has changed styles over the years. If you tasted the classic 1977 vintage in 1980 you would be wasting the wine. In those years the port took years to mellow. 30 years later it is just coming into its own. This 2007 is made in a much more approachable manner. The raspberry and currant notes boom forward. The wine will definitely benefit from aging, allowing the more subtle flavors to show through.
I am not particularly fond of pairing sweet wine with a sweet desert. I know many think of chocolate as a match for port, but it seemed that the chocolate washed a good deal of the fruit from the port leaving it bitter and astringent. I would prefer the port and the desserts on their own.

2004 Late Bottled Vintage Porto ($31.99)

Guinness Cheddar and Epoisses, fresh berries and pears with toasted baguette
Dense ruby color followed by rich flavors of dark cherry and plum with a long lingering finish. The port paired particularly well with the rich Guinness Cheddar.